Tutorial: Removing the Turbo 1 wiring harness Version 1.0 *!* This tutorial as it is written pertains to the wiring harness of the 1987 to 1991 Dodge Daytona with the 4 cylinder turbo I engine. Other Chrysler Corp. vehicles using the 4 cylinder turbo I engine will have a similar setup, but the reader should note there will be differences (for example, the Daytona has 2 headlight door motors with individual wiring whereas the Chrysler LeBaron has a single motor for its headlight doors.) 1) Disconnect the positive and negative battery terminals. 2) Disconnect the SMEC (computer) plugs. The upper plug will have a retaining bolt. Use an 8mm socket and ratchet to remove it. The lower plug is a 12-pin connector. Simply apply pressure and it will pull out. 3) Unplug the driver-side sensors: there are a number of sensors on the driver-side strut tower (fuel pump, radiator fan, etc.) 4) Remove the driver-side lights from their sockets. The easiest way to do this it to start by reaching behind the fender (from under the car) and removing the side marker light. It should be fairly simple to reach and twists out. The front parking lense is held in by 2 torx bolts (size 20). Remove these and the harness will twist loose from the rear of the lense. The foglight (if so equipped) has a single plug leading off the rear of the light assembly. The headlight has a single angular plug going into the back of it. It pulls straight out (Note: it may be easier to unplug this wire with the headlights in the raised position.) The headlight motor has a single plug going to it. This will require unclasping a small plastic latch. It's on the same lead as the fog lights. Carefully remove all of the harness parts from their plastic reatainers (small circlets that hold the wires to the car body) and thread them back through the holes leading into the engine compartment. Repeat this process for the passenger side of the car. Also, on the passenger side there will be 2 horn connections. These slide off and should be removed now. (Note: It will likely be necessary to remove the SMEC before the driver's side of the harness can come out.) 5) The wiring to the front (radiator fan, Hall Effect pick-up, coolant temperature sensor, alternator) can be disconnected from the main harness near the SMEC connections, under the battery mount. This can be left in the car if desired, but is easily removed by disconnecting the various mentioned sensors. 6) The wires to the transmission can be disconnected from the main harness if desired. This part connects near the SMEC under the battery holder. Simply follow the leads down to the transmission if removal is required. 7) Disconnect the Throttle Position sensor and the Idle Speed Motor from the rear of the throttle body. 8) Unplug the Oxygen sensor. It is located on the passenger side near the firewall. 9) Unplug the sensors on the passenger-side strut tower (MAP sensor, barametric pressure sensor, wastegate solenoid, etc.) 10) Remove the ignition coil positive and ground from the coil main terminals. There are 2 nuts holding the wires on. Use a 6mm ratchet to unbolt the terminal nuts. 11) Unbolt the body-grounding wires. There are at least four: one on the passenger side attached to the firewall, another on the passenger side coming off of the horn leads, one coming out of the negative battery lead, and one attached to the engine head near the waterbox. (There may be more. Be sure to follow the main harness wiring and look for any addition ground leads.) 12) There is a small bundle of wires going into the firewall just above the brake master cylinder. These go to the wiper motors. If you wish to disconnect these properly, you must remove the plastic cover from the top of the firewall and trace the wires to the wipers. It may also be just as easy to cut these and repair them later. 13) The main harness branch running through the firewall on the driver's side goes to a 50-way connector behind the steering column. Removal of this connector will require crawling into the driver-side floorboard, so make sure you have the proper tools or an assistant for ease of removal. The 50-way connector resides above the parking brake bracket. A) Use an 8mm small-handle ratchet to remove the retaining bolt from the center of the harness and then pull the steering side of the harness away from the engine side. Carefully work the engine side of the harness out of the support bracket. B) Unplug the parking break lead directly behind the 50-way connector. C) Next, look for a green plug directly inline with the steering column. Carefully lift up the retaining latch and unplug the connector. D) There should be a black connector near the fierwall hole at the floorboard level. Disconnect this the same way as the green connector. E) Follow the main harness from the engine up towards the dashboard. There will be a small black connector with a white retaining latch. Unplug that also. F & G) The final connections are up into the steering column a short distance. It will be easier to use a long-bladed narrow screwdriver to remove these. Following the harness up into the column, you will notice 2 black plugs side-by-side about a foot up into the dash. The retaining latches are on the bottoms of the plugs. Using the screwdriver, carefully push up on the latches while pushing diagnolly back towards the passenger side. The plugs should pop out. Once these are out, feed all of the wires towards the firewall hole and push them out through that hole. This will require the rubber fitting to be dislodged (and likely a friend to help pull the harness while you feed it from the inside.) 14) The final main connections come off of the positive battery terminal and go behind the engine to the starter motor and solenoid. These unbolt with an 8mm and 6mm wratchet respectively. These are difficult to get to while still in the car. It will be necessary to remove most of the air/vaccuum system from this area first. The starter motor itself can be removed by unbolting the 2 retaining bolts from the transmission/block housing (they should be 15mm or 18mm). These bolts are equally difficult to reach and are in very tight. If possible, it may be easier to go underneath the car to work on anything related to the starter. Be sure to consider proper safety measures anytime you go underneath a vehicle. 15) In removing the harness, other connections may be found for additional grounding or sensors. Simply follow any wires that still seem connected and the locations will be fairly obvious. With the exception of the starter wires and the interior harness, everything should be removable from above the car inside the engine compartment. Never tug hard on a wire as it could strip from its connection. Overall, just be patient and thurough. Installation of the harness is reverse of removal.