Tutorial: Aligning the timing gear on the 2.5 Turbo 1 engine
Version 1.0

*!*	This tutorial is written in reference to the 2.5 liter turbo 1
	engine as found in many Chrysler/Dodge/Plymouth vehicles from the 
	80's and early 90's. The author specifically modelled it after 
	the 2.5 turbo found in the 89 Dodge Daytona ES. However, this can 
	be applied to most 2.5 turbo 1 engines.
*!*	Also note that this tutorial references the engine being out of the 
	car, but with care this can be performed with the engine still in
	a vehicle.

1)	With the timing belt off, turn the crank until the number 1 piston
	reaches Top Dead Center (TDC). You can look through the spark plug 
	opening to see this or use a TDC tool. (If the engine is in the car, 
	use the flywheel mark as seen through the view window in the bell 
	housing of the transmission. The mark will say 0 degrees at TDC.)

2)	Next, align the cam gear. You will note there are 4 large holes in the 
	cam sprocket with a smaller oval-shaped hole above one of the larger ones. 
	This oval-shaped hole is the alignment mark. Make sure this hole is facing
	the 12 o'clock position in relation to the engine (once in the car, it will 
	almost be facing the 11 o'clock position.) You will also note that there 
	are 2 arrows pointing away from each other at 90 and -90 degrees from the 
	alignment hole. These arrows should be parallel to where the head and 
	valve cover meet.

3)	With the distributor removed (unbolted from the retaining bracket), turn 
	the intermediate shaft so that the notches in the top of the oil pump 
	(as seen through the now empty distributor hole) are parallel to the 
	crank shaft/block. The distributor bracket, located directly underneath 
	the rotor assembly, is held on by a 13mm bolt. Removal is facilitated by 
	a distributor adjustment wrench (or an s-curve wrench).

4)	Carefully wrap the timing belt back around all of the gears without letting 
	them move. Double check all of them before tightening the timing belt. 
	The timing belt tensioner is located just up and rear of the crank pully. 
	It requires a 15mm socket or wrench. Remember, the timing belt has teeth. 
	It does not need to be excessively tight, but just tight enough so that it 
	doesn't slip. Belt deflection should be within an inch.

5)	Replace the distributor. Make sure the rotor is facing somewhere near the 
	second cylinder location (or where the number 1 plug wire would be with the
	rotor cap in place). If it is facing the opposite way, remove and turn the 
	distributor 180 degrees. If it faces either of the other 2 directions, ensure
	all of your gear alignments are correct.

6)	Replace the timing belt cover. There is a plastic cap in the top of the cover.
	When removed, the cam gear alignment hole should appear directly in the center
	of the timing cover's view hole. If not, go back and ensure proper alignments.

7)	Connect a timing light to the engine as per the light maker's specifications.
	With all bolts tightened and nothing in way of the belt drive, start the car 
	and let it get to operating temperature. Disconnect the coolant temperature 
	sensor, then reconnect it. This tells the computer to rely on other factors
	for ignition timing.

8)	Check the timing by pointing the light at the view hole in the top of the 
	transmission bell housing. Timing should be at 12 degrees before TDC (there 
	is a 12 degree mark on the bell housing. It may be necessary to sand this 
	spot down first for proper identification). If the timing is not at 12, 
	loosen the distibutor retaining bolt enough so that the distributor will 
	turn by hand. Slowly adjust the assembly left or right in small motions 
	until the timing reaches 12 degrees. Then, retighten the retaining bolt being
	careful not to let the distributor turn any. Recheck the timing. (Note: 
	It is a good idea to turn the car off when working with the distributor
	because the fan may be engaged. Simple turn the car off, make the adjustments, 
	then turn the car back on. The adventurous mechanic can do this without 
	cutting the car off, though it is not recommended by this author or by
	any recognized repair manual or program.)